Smoking Hot Baños
Sunday, January 11th, 2009Located in Central Ecuador, Baños is a tourist town. Shops selling cheap, cheesy souvenirs around the main plaza, open-trucks/jeeps for guided tours to the waterfalls, motorcycle rentals and a good dusting of cafes and restaurants catering to every kind of traveler.
Baños was on our list for two reasons, one – the extremely hot Mt. Tungurahua and the mineral baths. After two weeks of going around Ecuador we wanted to rest and rejuvenate before we headed back to real world and routine life in Houston.
We did not get what we were looking in terms of rest and rejuvenation at Baños due to the crowd. We spent New Year’s Eve and New Year’s day in Baños and the place was crawling with tourists. Hotels full, cafes with long lines, public baths with lines stretching miles, stores crowded, and store owners enjoying a bit of price gouging.
But in Baños we heard and saw a volcano in action. We so badly wanted to see red hot lava (we missed it in Hawaii) but unfortunately for us Mt. Tungurahua was in not mood to put up a show. But we saw smoke and ash spew out of the crater at an alarming rate.
Mt.Tungurahua
Our first sight of Mt.Tungurahua was as we drove from Cuenca into the city. At first sight it looks like a low clouds hanging over the peak. In a country, famed for its cloud forests and low-lying cloud cover, it was easy to pass off the smoke and ash as clouds. The smoke and ash in fact look like dark clouds, puffy, slow moving and with a hint of black – indicating the probability of afternoon showers. But soon you realize that is not clouds but smoke and ash and awe fills you completely.
Our First Sight of Tungurahua
It was a mixture of shock, awe and fear that filled us as we watched Mt. Tungurahua as we wound our way through the mountains into Baños that day. After a while, you question yourself why do you want to keep in sight a rather boring mountain with something like clouds on top of it. It is not like you see a lot of action there. But just the knowledge that it is an active volcano fills one with wonder including the locals.
Once in the city of Baños, one does not have a view of the volcano which was kind of disappointing. Visions of late nights on a patio wrapped in warm clothing watching the volcano floods us but to catch sight of the volcano, we took a taxi ride .
Taxis offer a trip called to the viewpoint for around $15. The trip takes approximately an hour through winding narrow roads up a mountain right across from Tungurahua. As we approach the summit, where local TV station relay antennas are positioned , the volcano looks larger than life. With a perpetual cloud of smoke and ash rising from the top and if you paid really close attention you can actually hear a roar. It was fascinating and scary. The view of the city are also pretty good at certain places along the drive.
The view of the city
Ecuador is known for its low-lying clouds and everytime Mt.Tungurahua was covered with clouds we would turn our eyes else where but as the clouds drifted off, making way for our eyes to seek out the 5,000 m tall volcano smoking, it brought a feeling that cannot be explained. Thinking back, we think it was the feeling of creation and destruction that volcano is so capable of doing. Dangerous and exciting!
Tungurahua with its smoke and the low-lying clouds
As we made our way down the mountain back to the city of Baños, in what little of Spanish we knew we asked the taxi driver about living so close to the volcano. He spoke eloquently and animatedly. We did not understand much but his voice showcased the pain, the fear, and the thrill.
To wind off our trip in Baños we heading out to Luna Runtun – an adventure spa as they call it. Why an adventure you ask? Well what do you call staying halfway up on an active volcano that has lava bubbling underneath it? At the Luna Runtun like any other luxury hotel in the mountains, one gets to enjoy fresh blooming flowers, birds of all colors and shapes, jacuzzis filled with mineral water, pools with views of the city, good food, great spa, wonderfully decorated rooms, and above all the sounds of the volcano. Here at Luna Runtun you can hear the volcano roar distinctly.
The first time we heard the volcano roar, we dismissed it as thunder. The volcano’s roar is similar to thunder, dull, rolling, loud and powerful are the adjectives we attach to it. Once we realized what it was we stopped on our tracks to listen but then the volcano does not follow our wishes right. It roars when it pleases.
As we enjoyed watching the hummingbirds around our room it roared and we stopped and stared at each other. It roared as we were enjoying the lovely guava mousse served at dinner, we paused with our dessert spoons half-way to our mouths. We sure looked stupid but the volcano’s roar is amazing.
Other things to do in Baños:
- Visit the waterfalls (taxi rides are around $15).
- Visit the blue town of Pelileo, where Levis jeans are made.
- Taste some local taffy (okie it was not our favorite) and watch it being made, stretched and pulled.
- Sit in the park and watch locals head back home from the produce market. It was nostalgic to see mothers and daughter, friends and neighbors shop together and share the load. Typically, one person grabs one handle of the shopping bag and the other person grabs the other handle. The bag swinging in between, they walk home.
- Head to the public mineral baths only if they are not crowded.
- Head off to the Amazon rainforests. This is the where the rainforests start. (We decided against adding rainforests to our itinerary just because we did not have time.)
Taffy Making at Banos
Places we ate at in Baños:
- Cafe Hood : A guidebook recommendation. Quirky, casual place to sit and relax. Read a book or play a game. They have a menu featuring food from all over. We loved their curry chicken sandwich but the Hindu plate failed to impress. The Mexican tacos were good as was the Pad Thai (though not close to the ones we are used to in America it was still very yummy). Make sure you take a couple of minutes to check out the walls – they have some good paintings and an eclectic postcard and photo collection.
- There was it small cafe/sandwich place right next to Cafe Hood we frequented for their “best coffee”. It was a nice place to start the day or break for a nice snack. The menu is limited but the patio was a wonderful place to be. Grab a few magazines from the book shelf and enjoy.
- Luna Runtun: We had breakfast and dinner at the Luna Runtun’s main restaurant and have no complaints. Both occasions it was a buffet menu. We did not try their cafe.
- Aroma Cafe: It is a chocolate fondue and coffee place. It is located in one of the shopping buildings. The store also sold coffees, chocolate, and nuts. We had a tres leches cake there and brought some Ecuadorian coffee and chocolate. Another wonderful place to hang out.
The decorated Cafe Hood wall
Shopping in Baños:
Most of Baños shops are within 2 blocks and most shops offer the same stuff. Keychains, tees, handbags, postcards etc. The collection is also pretty much the same. Some stores have distinctively different pieces so take your time and visit the all the stores.
More abour our Ecuador trip coming soon…